Recently, I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity of meeting designer Christian Wijnants at Paris Fashion Week and attending his Pre-Fall 2015 show. This meant that after a month travelling in Australia and New Zealand, I had to repack and board another long-haul flight almost immediately after landing back at HKIA. Despite thinking how terrible my jetlag would be from flying across three different continents in 48 hours, I was still very excited!
Christian Wijnants is not a household name in Asia, but people who have seen his designs certainly don’t forget them easily – and that’s exactly what happened to me when I spotted some of his outfits shopping at Central/Central one day. I hadn’t heard of the designer before but these were some extraordinary knitwear dresses; from then on, Christian Wijnants’ name has been engraved in my brain!
Christian Wijnants Pre-Fall 2015 runway looks
Jackie Nickerson’s Farm photography
His Pre-Fall 2015 collection was inspired by the work of American photographer Jackie Nickerson – her Farm Collection series. Christian has been following Jackie’s work for years and found himself particularly intrigued by the contrast between people and nature in her images.
Jackie’s photos show farmers wearing a variety of mixed-texture materials such as rubber, banana leaves and knits, mostly recycled or reused, in rough and wild prints. These women do not have the luxury of wearing anything body-hugging or feminine for their work – hence the more boyish cuts in Christian’s designs this season.
The designs really speak for themselves and transport you back to where Jackie shot those original photos. I also noticed a balance of models from different races walking his runway – so with plenty of questions already bubbling away in my head, I sat down with Christian for a chat after his show.
Tell me a little more about yourself?
I was born in Brussels, but went to Antwerp to study at the age of 18. I worked for Dries Von Noten for a year and am based in Antwerp most of the time.
Can you use three words to describe this collection?
That’s difficult. Hmmm… I would say poetic, fresh, feminine.
When did you want to become a designer?From the age of 12 or 13. I have always loved fashion and many Belgian designers started to became famous around that time too. I like how fashion is a mix of creativity but since people also wear your designs, it’s interactive – unlike art pieces, which you can only look at.
Who are your biggest inspirations?
I am obsessed with Belgian designers like Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons.
Describe your normal working day?
I usually get up at 8am; I don’t eat breakfast, but instead go out and walk my dogs (I have three of them) around 9am. Sometimes I go cycling in the morning too.
Every day is quite different because I am not only a designer, but I also run my own company – so it really depends on the different things that need to be done on a daily basis. Nevertheless, I can tell you that my days don’t usually end before 9pm… and I won’t be off until 2am if it’s Fashion Week! When I do have the rare leisure of leaving a little earlier, I go to the gym.
Do you like any Chinese designers?Yes, I like Yang Li. I think her work is very minimal and modern; she has found a good balance between being commercial and design-led.
Do you showcase at other fashion weeks? Why Paris Fashion Week?
I think Paris Fashion Week is the most unique; buyers, press and everyone else comes to Paris for it, but you can’t say the same for all the other fashion weeks. Also, I speak French!
What’s your favourite era of fashion?
The 1970s! When I think about that era, peace and love come to mind – flower power, a happy optimistic world when people believed in new things. They were trying to get in harmony with nature, fighting for human rights and feminism.
Backstage of Christian Wijnants Pre-Fall 2015, Paris Fashion Week
Is there anything you always wanted to create but haven’t had a chance to yet?
I would like to do menswear. Probably not now, but hopefully one day!
Christian Wijnants in his studio in Paris
We later took a closer look at Christian’s collection at his Marais showroom, and went for a cosy bistro dinner where we chatted more. Purchasing his clothes makes me feel one step away from textile waste and the growth of poor labour; his clean way of living shows in every part of his designs and lifestyle. If there are nice kids and naughty ones in the world of fashion designers, then Christian is definitely one of the good guys!
Wearing one of my favourite looks from Christian Wijnants’ latest collection, and I can’t look more ready to live a simple quality life!
Tags: backstage, Christian Wijnants, designer, EQIQ, France, Interview, Paris Fashion Week, runway looks, 巴黎, 後台, 時裝周, 時裝秀, 訪問, 設計師
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